Edinburgh to Copenhagen

Rise to the heights of the craggy outcrop of Arthur's Seat, the greatest of the seven mountains surrounding Edinburgh, to survey one of the world's most magical cities from a truly privileged outlook. Few cities can genuinely claim to have it all, but Edinburgh may be one, with its immense artistry, gorgeous architecture and deep contribution to high culture. A cultural, creative and curious place it may be, but the locals are anything but superior, and many a friendly chat and ribbing takes place in the nooks of its flower-draped pubs. Open parks, and the majestic Royal Botanic Gardens - open since 1670 - offer more colour among the wash of pretty Georgian and brick buildings. With such architectural and artistic wealth, it's no surprise that Edinburgh continues to be a city of literature, where the written word is revered above all else. The looming memorial dedicated to Sir Walter Scott symbolises this and is one of the world's largest monuments dedicated to a writer. The Writers' Museum is dedicated to the craft of other Scottish wordsmiths, such as Sir Robert Burns and Robert Louis Stevenson. The old town is a quaint and enchanting place, and Edinburgh's storied literary heritage continues to grow, with J.K. Rowling formulating Harry Potter's magical world in the cute cafes here. Wander the bustling, gas-lamp-lit cobbled streets, and sink into a fairy-tale world of your own, before ascending to Edinburgh Castle – which rises majestically above the city on its volcanic plug perch.

Cliffs of tall hexagonal columns create a sensational landscape at the Shiant Islands, especially when viewed from the sea. The cliffs of six-sided rock columns look like the cross-section of an enormous honeycomb. The rock formations were formed when molten volcanic magma cooled very slowly underground. Millions of years of erosion has exposed the six-sided columns to the sea, and to us. The tallest of these formations is 120 metres (390 feet) high. During spring and summer, flights of seabirds near the Shiant Islands catch the eye. Many long-winged seabirds wheel and soar gracefully. Others are more shaped for underwater swimming and fly in direct lines, beating stubby wings to resemble flying potatoes. Some birds nest in burrows while others, like Black-legged Kittiwakes, nest on cliffs. Rather than build nests, guillemots lay eggs on bare rock ledges. The pointed shape of the eggs ensures they roll in a tight circle, not off the ledge to the sea below. The Shiant Islands are part of the Outer Hebrides and located between the Isles of Lewis and Skye. Historically, they have supported families of sheep grazers who could tolerate a lonely island outpost. The Shiants were known as the last place in Britain where the Black Rat occurred in substantial numbers. Originally introduced to Britain from Asia in Roman times these rodents caused problems, eating eggs and chicks of seabirds. A successful eradication program eliminated the rats in 2016, giving the seabird colonies well-earned peace.

The stunning Isle of Lunga is the largest island in the Treshnish archipelago. With volcanic origin the isle was populated until the 19th Century and remains of black houses can be seen around this magnificent coastal jewel. Abundant plant life and exotic birdlife are now the main inhabitants of the area. Fortunate visitors view the magnificent array of birds especially the great puffins that breed on the islands plateau. One can sit within just a few feet away without disturbing the avian ambassador’s peace. The 81 hectare island is home to many rare and endangered plants such as primroses and orchids. Views over the landscape and across the ocean can be seen from the 300 foot high cliffs.

If tiny islands that resonate with peace and tranquillity are your idea of travel heaven, then welcome to Iona. Almost 200 miles east of Edinburgh, set in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, this magical island has a spiritual reputation that precedes it. And luckily, more than lives up to.The island is miniscule. Just three miles long and only one and a half miles wide, this is not a place that hums with urban attractions. 120 people call Iona home (this number rises significantly if the gull, tern and Kittiwake population is added), although residential numbers do go up (to a whopping 175) in summer. The beautiful coastline is lapped by the gulf stream and gives the island a warm climate with sandy beaches that look more Mediterranean than Scottish! Add to that a green field landscape that is just beautiful, and you’ll find that Iona is a place that stays with you long after you leave.Iona’s main attraction is of course its abbey. Built in 563 by Saint Columbia and his monks, the abbey is the reason why Iona is called the cradle of Christianity. Not only is the abbey (today an ecumenical church) one of the best – if not the best – example of ecclesiastical architecture dating from the Middle Ages, but it also serves as an important site of spiritual pilgrimage. St. Martin’s Cross, a 9th century Celtic cross that stands outside the abbey, is considered as the finest example of Celtic crosses in the British Isles. Rèilig Odhrain, or the cemetery, allegedly contains the remains of many Scottish kings.

Gloriously remote, St. Kilda is an archipelago 50 miles off the Isle of Harris. Although the four islands are uninhabited by humans, thousands of seas birds call these craggy cliffs home, clinging to the sheer faces as if by magic. Not only is St. Kilda home to the UK’s largest colony of Atlantic Puffin (almost 1 million), but also the world largest colony Gannets nests on Boreray island and its sea stacks. The islands also home decedents of the world’s original Soay sheep as well as having a breed of eponymously named mice. The extremely rare St. Kilda wren unsurprisingly hails from St. Kilda, so birders should visit with notebook, binoculars and camera to hand.While endemic animal species is rife on the island, St. Kilda has not been peopled since 1930 after the last inhabitants voted that human life was unsustainable. However, permanent habitation had been possible in the Medieval Ages, and a vast National Trust for Scotland project to restore the dwellings is currently being undertaken. The islands even enjoyed a status as being an ideal holiday destination in the 19th century. Today, the only humans living on the islands are passionate history, science and conservation scholars. One of the caretakers even acts as shopkeeper and postmaster for any visitors who might like to send a postcard home from St. Kilda.It should be noted that St. Kilda is the UKs only (and just one of 39 in the world) dual World Heritage status from UNESCO in recognition of its Natural Heritage and cultural significance.

Scattered just off the northern tip of Scotland Kirkwall is the capital of the Orkney Islands - a scenic archipelago of fascinating dual heritage. The Viking influence is deep while a prehistoric past and World War history adds to the endless stories that these dramatic islands have to tell. Sparse and beautiful let the sweeping seascapes of frothing waves and dance of the northern lights enchant you as you explore. Windswept beaches are inhabited by whooping swans while grassy cliffs hide puffins amid their wavy embrace. Sea caves and crumbling castles - and the dramatic meeting of the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean add to the romantic beauty of these lands which may be physically close to the UK but feel an entire world away. The sandstone St. Magnus Cathedral is the centrepiece of Orkney's main town - a place of winding lanes and atmospheric walks - and Britain's northernmost cathedral is a masterpiece that took 300 years to complete. Started in 1137 the beautiful cathedral is adorned with mesmerising stain-glass windows and has been evocatively named as the Light of the North. Look down over the ruined Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces nearby from the tip of the cathedral's tower. Or test out the islands' history-rich distilleries which produce smokey single malts - said to be the best in the world. You can also venture out to Europe's best-preserved Stone Age Village at the extraordinary World Heritage Site of Skara Brae which offers an unparalleled vision into prehistoric life.

Adrift between the Scottish and Norwegian coasts the craggy Shetland Islands form the most northerly point of the British Isles. Sprawling across 100 islands connected by sandy bridges and crisscrossing ferries explore the highlights of this scenic archipelago outpost. Look out over dramatic coastline from atmospheric Iron Age towers. Sweeping windswept beaches and wisps of sand connect islands and rugged cliffs - stand back as the sounds of the waves smashing against the shore and calling gulls fills the air. The islands are also home to some of the most adorable four-legged creatures you’ll ever meet the diminutive and wavy-fringed Shetland Ponies who roam the hills and reach a maximum size of 42 inches. Don't be fooled though they are amongst the strongest and toughest of all breeds. Their existence here points to Viking history as local horses bred with ponies brought ashore by Norse settlers creating the lovable crossbreed that is an icon of these islands today. The towering Broch of Mousa is perhaps Europe’s best-preserved Iron Age building - and one of the Shetland's finest brochs - a series of round stone towers believed to have been constructed around 100 BC. Seals and birdlife ensure that the isolated islands are always well-populated with life - and you can embark on hikes to discover their coastal homes. Lerwick is the islands’ capital and there's a charming welcome on offer as you arrive before the waterfront of stone buildings which cascade down to the shore.

Rosendal, with its mountains and waterfalls, is one of Norway’s more romantic villages. Cut off from the rest of the world by high mountains and the Folgefonna National Park, and home to just 800 year round inhabitants, to say the village is in a little world of its own is no exaggeration!While Rosendal might lack for urban excitement, you certainly couldn’t want to find a more beautiful setting. Soaring mountains peaks, narrow winding fjords, impressive waterfalls and the third largest glacier in Norway are all par for the norm here, as are breathtaking glacier views and some of the freshest air you’ll ever experience.The village was famously a wedding present to Ludvig Holgersen Rosenkrantz’s daughter in 1658. Rosenkrantz was the wealthiest man in the country at the time, owning over 500 farms all over western Norway. The great manor house built shortly after the wedding still stands, along with beautifully maintained gardens that were added 300 years later. The house is a wonderful reflection of the different periods styles of the various illustrious owners and restoration has been painstakingly carried out. The oldest rooms are still decorated as they were in the early 19th century while the library is the only 17th century room in Norway kept in its entirety, complete with the original rich French tapestry from the 1660’s.No visit to this little village would be complete without a taste of local life. Pop into a tea shop for a traditional griddlecake, enjoyed amid splendid waterfront views.

Effortlessly cool and down to earth, Copenhagen is a contemporary, clean and classy highlight of Scandinavia. A city built to be liveable, Copenhagen has refused to compromise, resulting in a forward-thinking metropolis that’s green and clean. Swim in the waters of Havnebadet Islands during summer, or shelter from winter’s bite by snuggling in beside a roaring open fire during winter. You can even hop on a train to Sweden, traversing the famous span of a Nordic Noir star - the Öresund Bridge. It takes just a touch over half an hour to step off the train in Malmö. There’s only one way to truly explore Copenhagen and that’s on two wheels. Easy bike hire schemes will get you moving across this flat city, designed with bikes at the forefront of the mind. Choose a model with electronic assistance to take the strain out of any journey, giving you the freedom to whizz around and explore the modern angular architecture of the centre, and the pastoral colours of Nyhavn waterfront. Head out to the Little Mermaid statue, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale - the strikingly-restrained statue is the perfect landmark for Copenhagen; unshowy, self-assured and utterly irresistible. The Danish concept of hygge is very much alive here, and you’ll feel that warm cosy feeling as you visit cafes illuminated by the warm glow of hanging filament bulbs, and stuffed to the brim with thick, dusty books. Home to mega-brewer Carlsberg, Copenhagen is also a city for hop enthusiasts, and there is a thriving craft brewing scene to sample. Danish Smørrebrød sandwiches are a must try, or for something a little more substantial, settle in for a culinary voyage and try a taster menu – the city’s restaurants are littered with Michelin stars.