Incheon to Osaka

The bright lights of neighbouring big city Seoul might burn brightly but Incheon, just 27 kilometres away, has nothing to be ashamed of. The coastal city was the first to open its borders to the world in 1883, and as such has always enjoyed a special relationship with the west. So much so that it was granted “English Status” in 2007, with many residents priding themselves on their command of the language. The city’s love of English has made it a business powerhouse so expect soaring skyscrapers and smart technology as part of the landscape.Incheon was also the first to welcome the Chinese and today the city’s Chinatown is one of the most vibrant and welcoming there is. A frenetic and exciting hybrid of Chinese and Korean heritage, it is said that Jjajangmyeon (black soy bean noodles), South Korea’s de facto national dish originates from here. Try a steaming bowl from one of the many vendors, then walk it off with the short 15-minute stroll from Chinatown to the traditional Sinpo Market for different kind of sensational feast.The city is steeped in history, notably in recent times during the Korean War. In 1950, the US general General MacArthur led UN forces behind enemy lines in freeing the city from North Korean pressure. MacArthur’s victory is commemorated by a statue in the Jaya (Freedom) Park. The city’s history of course goes back much further, with the first historical record dating as far back as 475 CE. At the time the city was called Michuhol, only changing its name to Incheon in 1413.

"A tapestry of kaleidoscopic colours, intense seafood flavours, and urban beach bliss, Busan rolls across a glorious natural setting on the Korean Peninsula's south-east. One of the largest and busiest ports in the world, 3.5 million people call South Korea's second city home, and the amiable locals help to lend the city its quirky, offbeat outlook. A spacious, playful and cosmopolitan place, Busan is a lively, liveable city, cradled by lush mountains and endless ocean scenery. Haedong Yonggung Temple nestles on a dramatic cliffside, just above the crumbling rocks and crashing waves of the East Sea. Dating back to 1376, the temple's multi-storey pagoda is adorned with lions - each representing a different emotion. Elsewhere, lanterns glitter in the night sky around Mount Geumjeongsan, freshly released from the beautiful Beomeosa Temple, which was established in AD 678. The hillside shantytown of Gamcheon Culture Village has completed an improbable transformation, blossoming from a sea of makeshift homes for Korean war refugees, into a colourful explosion of creativity and curiosity. Local artists have been let loose to create interactive installations, and the entire area is now an expansive canvas for expression. Lose yourself among vibrant alleyways of flamingo-pink, lemon-yellow and baby-blue painted facades in this unique area. Sample bibimbap, fiery-hot beef and rice, from street food vendors, before relaxing on one of South Korea's best beaches - Haeundae's banana bend of sand. Metallic skyscrapers offer an unusual backdrop to this pristine expanse of golden powder and are mirrored by elaborate sandcastles and sculptures during the annual sand festival - when spontaneous water fights and firework displays also take place. Gwangalli beach is another urban option, laying out spectacular views of the reaching Gwangan Bridge - the country's second largest bridge. At night, 16,000 bulbs bathe this engineering marvel in colour."

One of Japan's most southerly major cities, Kagoshima is dominated by the imposing Sakurajima volcano's cone – a legendary active volcano that broods, churns and puffs out ash nearby. A pretty old-time ferry chugs across the still waters to the gently sloping foothills of the volcano's cone, and it's easy to imagine where the comparisons with its sister city Naples materialised, as you sail the glorious sweeping Kinko Bay, below beaming sunshine, towards the immense volcanic spectacle. This is certainly no historic relic, and the volcano remains revered and feared, with the most dramatic recent eruption taking place in 1914, and spewing out a new bridge of land into the sea. Make the most of the geothermal activity in the area by indulging in a stress-simmering black sand bath. Incredibly relaxing, you'll be submerged in the warm sand, as you feel your muscles relaxing in the heat, and rejuvenating blood pumping around your body. Enjoy a privileged view of the iconic volcano's loom from the terraced garden of Senganen Garden. Built in 1658, this elegant, traditional garden has belonged to the Shimadzu family for 350 years. Wander the gardens - which bloom with Japan's renowned cherry tree blossoms and feature tiny bridges looping over ponds and rock pools - before sitting back and sipping a wholesome green matcha latte. Elsewhere, museums offer Feudal Era and Satsuma Province history, as well as insights into the Kamikaze squadrons of World War II. Lake Ikeda is also close by, so be sure to keep an eye out for the legendary Issie monster.

The lantern-lit hot springs of Beppu, known for its eight scorching “Hells”, is a town that’s prettier than a picture. The town is found in a particularly volcanically active part of Japan (hence the abundance of hot springs, or in Japanese, onsens). The viewing pools have evocative names; think Sea Hell, Blood Pond Hell and Tornado Hell. While the names might seem a little off putting, the reality is stunning; sulphur laced air and vast spectrums of blues and reds, depending on the mineralisation of the earth.As if the gorgeous palette of colours at the onsen was not enough, Beppu is also world famous for its Sakura, or cherry blossom season. More than 2,000 cherry trees near the base of the ropeway to Mount Tsurumi make for one of Beppu’s most impressive hanami (flower viewing) spots. If not lucky enough to be in the area during Sakura, from May to June rhododendrons colour the mountain. The view from this 1,375m mountain is beyond impressive, allowing you to see all the way to the Kuju Mountains, Chugoku and Shikoku. If brave enough to climb all the way to the top, the stone Buddhas that were carved into the mountainside during the Heian Period (794-1185) are a worthy reward! As with much of Japan, duality is ever present. Modernity sits very comfortably by ancient buildings. While Beppu’s biggest pull is by far the hot springs and the thermal baths, nearby (10 km) Yufuin has a wealth of art museums, cafes and boutiques, catering to trend setters and urbanites alike.

History buffs will want to write home Hiroshima. Despite being devastated in 1945, this Japanese city is known to all for its commitment peace – its ruin on the 6th August 1945 led to the end of the war and today, the Peace Memorial (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) , is a constant reminder of the destruction that war brings. A walk in the leafy boulevards of Peace Memorial Park brings quiet contemplation. The Flames of Peace – set in the park’s central feature pond – burn brightly and will continue to do so until all the nuclear bombs I the world have been destroyed. There are many other inspiring messages of hope around the city too; the Children’s’ Peace Monument just north of the park is a homage to little Sadako Sasaki, who was just two in 1945. When she developed leukemia in 1956, she believed that if she folded 1,000 paper cranes – a symbol of longevity and happiness in Japan – she would recover. Sadly she died before she finished her task but her classmates finished the rest. If you are lucky enough to visit during the unpredictable and short-lived Sakura (cherry blossom) season, then the extraordinary sight of the delicate pink blossom floating across the water to the red gate, means you can consider yourself one of the luckiest people on the planet.

Small and friendly, this castle town dates back from the early 17th century, and has just one of the 12 Japanese castles to have survived the feudal age. Regrettably, a WWII bombing in 1945 destroyed half the city, although thankfully not the original castle, which serves as a shining example of the Edo Period. A buzzing food market next to the castle provides sustenance – both local and international cuisine and those who are feeling adventurous must try the sugar tomato and rice omelette, either separately or why not together.For those in search of a quintessentially Japanese experience, Kochi is blessed with a superb landscape and an enjoyable local pastime is bathing in the hot springs (onsens) that surround the city. They come in many different shapes, sizes and colours (the colour of the water indicates the dominant minerals present: red for iron, milky for sulphur, blue for bicarbonate and so on). Some are considered rare and each type is said to have a different therapeutic effect. However, some etiquette is expected and first-time visitors should perhaps be aware of the formalities surrounding this bathing ritual.Home as well to some stunning beaches, visitors are advised against swimming in the sea because of strong undercurrents, instead being encourages to enjoy the many beachside attractions of the area, such as the Sakamoto Ryoma Memorial Museum, the lovely walking paths or the sumptuous local speciality katsuo no tataki, served on one of the many surrounding restaurants.Although perhaps not the most picturesque of downtowns, downtown Kochi holds a legendary tale, which centers on the Harimayabashi, (the small red bridge on the west side of the main street).Legend has it that a young priest from Godaisan fell in love with and a girl from Kochi. Because the priest's temple forbade relationships, the couple hid their romance by meeting in secret and exchanging clandestine gifts. One day, the priest was seen buying a hair comb at Harimayabashi, and the couple's secret romance was discovered.

Japan’s third-biggest city has thrown off its shackles and stepped out of the shadows to light up the sky with glaring neon signs and a larger than life outlook. Giant octopuses cling to buildings and bustling restaurants pack in the crowds in this great and garish place, which is Japan at its most friendly, extroverted and flavourful. So dive in headfirst to experience an all-out sensory assault of delicious food, shopping cathedrals and glittering temples. Dotombori Bridge bathes in the multicoloured, jewel-like lights of signage-plastered buildings, and the neon lights dance on the canal's waters below. Osaka is known as the nation's kitchen, and the Kuromon Ichiba Market has served as the city's spot to tuck in for almost 200 years. Full of street food stalls - try pufferfish, savoury Okonomiyaki pancakes, or ginger and onion flavoured octopus, among the endless feast of exotic flavours. Osaka Castle is another of the city’s landmarks, built in the 16th century by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. A modern museum now waits inside, where you can learn about the country's history, and why this castle is a symbol of Japanese unity. Be sure to take the elevator up to the observation deck for a panoramic view of Osaka's spread. A colourful park encloses the castle and blooms with an ocean of pale pink cherry blossom during the season - the elegant black tiers rising from the pink haze below is one of Osaka's most alluring visions. Kyoto’s peaceful cultural treasures and temples are also just a short jaunt away on Japan’s sleek trains, should you wish to explore further afield.

Japan’s third-biggest city has thrown off its shackles and stepped out of the shadows to light up the sky with glaring neon signs and a larger than life outlook. Giant octopuses cling to buildings and bustling restaurants pack in the crowds in this great and garish place, which is Japan at its most friendly, extroverted and flavourful. So dive in headfirst to experience an all-out sensory assault of delicious food, shopping cathedrals and glittering temples. Dotombori Bridge bathes in the multicoloured, jewel-like lights of signage-plastered buildings, and the neon lights dance on the canal's waters below. Osaka is known as the nation's kitchen, and the Kuromon Ichiba Market has served as the city's spot to tuck in for almost 200 years. Full of street food stalls - try pufferfish, savoury Okonomiyaki pancakes, or ginger and onion flavoured octopus, among the endless feast of exotic flavours. Osaka Castle is another of the city’s landmarks, built in the 16th century by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. A modern museum now waits inside, where you can learn about the country's history, and why this castle is a symbol of Japanese unity. Be sure to take the elevator up to the observation deck for a panoramic view of Osaka's spread. A colourful park encloses the castle and blooms with an ocean of pale pink cherry blossom during the season - the elegant black tiers rising from the pink haze below is one of Osaka's most alluring visions. Kyoto’s peaceful cultural treasures and temples are also just a short jaunt away on Japan’s sleek trains, should you wish to explore further afield.