Osaka to Tokyo

Japan’s third-biggest city has thrown off its shackles and stepped out of the shadows to light up the sky with glaring neon signs and a larger than life outlook. Giant octopuses cling to buildings and bustling restaurants pack in the crowds in this great and garish place, which is Japan at its most friendly, extroverted and flavourful. So dive in headfirst to experience an all-out sensory assault of delicious food, shopping cathedrals and glittering temples. Dotombori Bridge bathes in the multicoloured, jewel-like lights of signage-plastered buildings, and the neon lights dance on the canal's waters below. Osaka is known as the nation's kitchen, and the Kuromon Ichiba Market has served as the city's spot to tuck in for almost 200 years. Full of street food stalls - try pufferfish, savoury Okonomiyaki pancakes, or ginger and onion flavoured octopus, among the endless feast of exotic flavours. Osaka Castle is another of the city’s landmarks, built in the 16th century by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. A modern museum now waits inside, where you can learn about the country's history, and why this castle is a symbol of Japanese unity. Be sure to take the elevator up to the observation deck for a panoramic view of Osaka's spread. A colourful park encloses the castle and blooms with an ocean of pale pink cherry blossom during the season - the elegant black tiers rising from the pink haze below is one of Osaka's most alluring visions. Kyoto’s peaceful cultural treasures and temples are also just a short jaunt away on Japan’s sleek trains, should you wish to explore further afield.

One of Japan's most southerly major cities, Kagoshima is dominated by the imposing Sakurajima volcano's cone – a legendary active volcano that broods, churns and puffs out ash nearby. A pretty old-time ferry chugs across the still waters to the gently sloping foothills of the volcano's cone, and it's easy to imagine where the comparisons with its sister city Naples materialised, as you sail the glorious sweeping Kinko Bay, below beaming sunshine, towards the immense volcanic spectacle. This is certainly no historic relic, and the volcano remains revered and feared, with the most dramatic recent eruption taking place in 1914, and spewing out a new bridge of land into the sea. Make the most of the geothermal activity in the area by indulging in a stress-simmering black sand bath. Incredibly relaxing, you'll be submerged in the warm sand, as you feel your muscles relaxing in the heat, and rejuvenating blood pumping around your body. Enjoy a privileged view of the iconic volcano's loom from the terraced garden of Senganen Garden. Built in 1658, this elegant, traditional garden has belonged to the Shimadzu family for 350 years. Wander the gardens - which bloom with Japan's renowned cherry tree blossoms and feature tiny bridges looping over ponds and rock pools - before sitting back and sipping a wholesome green matcha latte. Elsewhere, museums offer Feudal Era and Satsuma Province history, as well as insights into the Kamikaze squadrons of World War II. Lake Ikeda is also close by, so be sure to keep an eye out for the legendary Issie monster.

Utterly devastated in just a few seconds, Nagasaki was the target of the second US atomic bomb, as World War II moved towards its horrifying conclusion. More than 50,000 were killed, and the stories here are harrowing and poignant. The fact that Nagasaki still stands at all, and has embarked on a new mission to promote global peace with a message of hope, is a testament to the people of this extraordinary place, however. The scars the city wears will never heal, but the colour, culture and creativity of Nagasaki may surprise you. Of course, the events of August 9th 1945 are unavoidable, and the Atomic Bomb Museum pulls no punches in its rendering of the story. Hear from survivors, known as ‘Hibakushas’, who speak at the centre, sharing tales of sadness, hope and resilience. The Memorial Hall is a glass structure of meditation and messages of peace left by visitors from every corner of the world. Nagasaki Peace Park honours the victims, while the Hypocenter Park marks the explosion's epicentre. Suwa Shrine stands just 800 metres away, and you can see the iconic, one-legged torii which was photographed, miraculously still standing amid the sea of devastation. Look out for the temple's scarred trees, which somehow survived the blast too. Look out over the city, nestled in the undulations of the valley – as you reach the top of Mount Inasa - which actually served to protect and shelter Nagasaki from even more destruction. Up here, you can't help but consider the city's journey - as it spreads out before you. A ropeway or a bus will help you reach this spectacular vantage point, to observe the harbour glittering and glistening peacefully.

"A tapestry of kaleidoscopic colours, intense seafood flavours, and urban beach bliss, Busan rolls across a glorious natural setting on the Korean Peninsula's south-east. One of the largest and busiest ports in the world, 3.5 million people call South Korea's second city home, and the amiable locals help to lend the city its quirky, offbeat outlook. A spacious, playful and cosmopolitan place, Busan is a lively, liveable city, cradled by lush mountains and endless ocean scenery. Haedong Yonggung Temple nestles on a dramatic cliffside, just above the crumbling rocks and crashing waves of the East Sea. Dating back to 1376, the temple's multi-storey pagoda is adorned with lions - each representing a different emotion. Elsewhere, lanterns glitter in the night sky around Mount Geumjeongsan, freshly released from the beautiful Beomeosa Temple, which was established in AD 678. The hillside shantytown of Gamcheon Culture Village has completed an improbable transformation, blossoming from a sea of makeshift homes for Korean war refugees, into a colourful explosion of creativity and curiosity. Local artists have been let loose to create interactive installations, and the entire area is now an expansive canvas for expression. Lose yourself among vibrant alleyways of flamingo-pink, lemon-yellow and baby-blue painted facades in this unique area. Sample bibimbap, fiery-hot beef and rice, from street food vendors, before relaxing on one of South Korea's best beaches - Haeundae's banana bend of sand. Metallic skyscrapers offer an unusual backdrop to this pristine expanse of golden powder and are mirrored by elaborate sandcastles and sculptures during the annual sand festival - when spontaneous water fights and firework displays also take place. Gwangalli beach is another urban option, laying out spectacular views of the reaching Gwangan Bridge - the country's second largest bridge. At night, 16,000 bulbs bathe this engineering marvel in colour."

Sakaiminato is a small city almost totally surrounded by water: the Sea of Japan to the east the Sakai Channel to the north and Lake Nakaumi to the west. Across the lake the towns of Matsue and Yasugi offer interesting experiences. Matsue is known as the “Town of Water” next to scenic Lake Shinji and Lake Nakaumi. It has one of the very few wooden castles that still remain in Japan. Touring the castle and boat rides on the Horikawa River and the castle’s moat are popular. Yasugi has the Adachi Museum of Art a private museum that houses one of the finest collections of contemporary Japanese paintings but also has a 165 000 square metres garden –with plants and rocks collected by the museum’s founder. Six different gardens show different scenarios depending on the season. These gardens have been selected as “Japan’s best garden” for several years.

The capital of the Ishikawa Prefecture, Kanazawa once rivalled Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) as a town rich in cultural achievements. Kanazawa escaped destruction during World War II and accordingly has been able to preserve many of the old districts in good shape. The city is famous because of Kenrokuen. Located next to Kanazawa Castle, Kenrokuen is classified as “One of the Three Gardens of Japan”. The garden has an artificial pond, and hills and houses are dotted within the 11.4 hectares. It has Japan’s oldest fountain using natural water pressure and a tea-house dating back to 1774. Close by is the Higashi Chaya Gai Geisha District, designated a National Cultural Asset and the biggest of the Geisha districts of Kanazawa. Some of the houses not only retain the original structure, but still are used as Geisha houses. Some of the streets have traditional shops creating a nostalgic atmosphere. Kanazawa is also known for its lacquer ware, Kutani-style pottery, gold-leaf workmanship and delicately painted silk kimonos.

Say the word Akita and you would be forgiven for thinking immediately of the lovable dog of the same name. But in fact, visitors to Akita will be treated not to a friendly furry face, rather to a beautiful city located on the northern tip of the island, around 500 km north of Tokyo. Lucky visitors will arrive in time for the superb sakura (cherry blossom), and surely there can be no sight more lovely than the elegant dip of the cherry trees alongside ancient Samurai residences. Akita is also home to a 2km tunnel of blossoming trees that run along the banks of the Hinokinai River, which is said to “bring a grown man to his knees and weep at its beauty”. If to you, Japan is synonymous with peace and serenity, then a trip to one of the onsens is a superb bucket list experience. Buses and taxis are easily available in the centre of town that will take you to Mizusawa, Oyu and Oyasukyo hot springs, some of the loveliest onsens in the country. Some of the superb sights in Akita are: Senshu Park, on the former site of Kubota Castle, the elegant red-brick folk Museum (housing works by block printer Katsuhira Tokushi (1907-1971) and metalwork by Sekiya Shiro (1907-1994) and the Old Kaneko Family Home. The Akita Museum of Art opened in 2012 and is home to the largest canvas painting in the world, Events of Atika, by Foujita (1886-1968). The painting measures a staggering 3.65 x 20.5 m (12 x 67 ft). The Museum also has many works by European masters such as Goya, Rubens, Rembrandt and Picasso.

Gaze down over Hakodate, from the heights of its namesake peak - Mount Hakodate - to see the city stretching out spectacularly, with back-to-back twin bays splitting the ocean. Hakodate port was one of the first to open Japan up to the world, and to international trade in 1859 - a fact reflected in the architecture, with its influences from the West and beyond. The port area is a redbrick wash of warehouses turned shopping malls, all observed by the onion domes of the city's Russian Orthodox church. Elsewhere, the star-shaped Goryokaku fortress glows with natural colours and a beautiful haze of cherry blossom during the season. Goryokaku Tower, which rises up beside it, offers a sweeping bird's eye view of the green fortress and mountain backdrop. Buses trundle up the 335-metre incline to the top of Mount Hakodate, but the best way to reach the views is to jump on the ropeway, which swings high above downtown's buildings, over a carpet of pine trees. Head up to the mountain's heights as sunset approaches. With darkness sweeping in, and the lights flickering to life, the panorama is one of Japan's most spectacular. Soak it all in, and look out to the horizon, dotted with the shimmering lights of ships hauling in harvests of the city's renowned squid. The plankton-rich waters attract a delicious variety of feasting sea life to Hakodate's coast, which is then plated up in the city's numerous, skilled restaurants. For an eye-opening, whirring morning, see the freshest produce being doled out at Hakodate Morning Market – amid a cacophony of noise and activity.

Set on the eastern coast in Japan’s Iwate prefecture, Miyako promises stunning scenery and Jorman history in equimeasure. The coastal city of around 50,000 inhabitants is around 600 km from Tokyo, but boasts one of the finest beaches in Japan, as well as a treasure trove of succulently fresh seafood restaurants. While travellers to Miyako might arrive expecting the usual amalgam of cultural attractions and high tech wizardry, they will leave with memories of one of the greatest garden cities they have ever experienced. During the Edo period (1603-1868) the town was considered as Japan’s main seaport. Today this is no longer the case, perhaps due to Miyako’s precarious placement and underwater seismic activity; four tsunamis have engulfed the city since 1700, with waves reaching almost 40 metres in some cases. Thus, local attractions tend to be of the natural kind, as historical buildings have been all but wiped out. Luckily, Mother Nature really does come into her own in Miyako. The city is bordered by the Sanriku Fukkō National Park, one of the National Parks of Japan. Sanriku Fukkō stretches for 180 km along the coast and homes a wonderful variety of flora and fauna, including groves of Japanese red pine, rhododendrons and Rosa rugosa. Numerous bird species, including the black-tailed gull and shearwater call the park home. What’s more, bird lovers will undoubted love that the nearby Hidejima Island and Sanganjima Island are the only breeding grounds in Japan for the band-rumped storm-petrel.

Dense and delightful, there’s nowhere else like Japan’s kinetic capital - a city where ancient traditions blend seamlessly with a relentless pursuit for the future’s sharpest edge. See the city from above, as elevators rocket you up to towering viewing platforms, from which you can survey a vast urban ocean, interspersed with sky-scraping needles. Look out as far as the distant loom of Mount Fuji’s cone on clear days. Futuristic – second-accurate - transport seamlessly links Tokyo’s 14 districts, while the glow of flashing advertisement boards, clanks of arcade machines, and waves of humanity flowing along its streets, adds to the sense of mesmerising, dizzying and glorious sensory overload. One of Tokyo’s most iconic sights, don’t miss the flood of people scrambling to cross Shibuya’s famous intersection. Join the choreographed dance, as crowds of briefcase-carrying commuters are given the green light to cross at the same time – bathed in the light of massive neon advertisements. The culture is immensely rich and deep, with 7th-century, lantern-decorated temples, stunning palaces and tranquil scarlet shrines waiting below cloaks of incense and nestling between soaring skyscrapers. Restaurants serve up precisely prepared sushi, and wafer-thin seafood slivers, offering a unique taste of the country’s refined cuisine. Settle into traditional teahouses, to witness intricate ceremonies, or join the locals as they fill out karaoke bars to sing the night away. In the spring, cherry blossom paints a delicate pink sheen over the city’s innumerable parks and gardens.