Puerto Williams to Buenos Aires

Puerto Williams is a Chilean city located on Navarino Island on the southern shores of the Beagle Channel. It claims to be the “southernmost city in the world”, however owing to its small size – 2500 residents approximately – the much larger Argentinean city of Ushuaia, which sits on the northern side of the same channel, also claims that title.
 
 The surrounding scenery is magnificent. The wild windswept mountains rise above the tree line and are regularly dusted with snow. The city itself has the dramatic backdrop called “Dientes de Navarino” (literally “teeth of Navarino”), which rival the famous Torres del Paine further to the north.
 
 The area was originally used by the Yaghan people, hunter-gatherers who despite enduring the harsh regional climate, could not weather the arrival of Europeans. 
 
 The current city was established as a naval base in 1953 and honours the British-Chilean naval commander John Williams Wilson of the 16th century. Initially it served to protect territorial possessions and fishing rights of the area, as well as offering logistical support to Antarctic bases. More recently it has become a departure point for scientific and tourism trips to the Antarctic region.
 
 In contrast to the bustle and traffic of a very commercial Ushuaia, Puerto Williams offers a quieter, more relaxed experience. It charms the visitor with a small village feel, complete with rustic buildings and the homely smell of drifting wood smoke. A haven of peace at the end of the world.


The Antarctic Peninsula unravels upwards towards South America reaching out a beckoning finger to the adventurous who dare to explore this untamed realm. Stretching up from the heart of the world’s southernmost continent the Antarctic Peninsula lies a mere 620 mile from Tierra del Fuego and for many offers a spectacular first taste of the snow-blanketed landscapes and colossal ice sculptures which make up Earth’s least-explored continent. Unseen by humans until 1820 - a blink of an eye ago in relative terms - this is an adventure sure to make your hairs stand on end as you experience the thrill of the truly unknown and extraordinary. The vast peninsula is sprinkled with research bases which are at the frontline of human scientific endeavour pushing to study and understand this unique landscape, its exceptional wildlife and the impact that humans are having on this pristine continent. Witness cathedral-sized icebergs up close and blue-hued glaciers slowly slipping from imposing locations.

The Antarctic Peninsula unravels upwards towards South America reaching out a beckoning finger to the adventurous who dare to explore this untamed realm. Stretching up from the heart of the world’s southernmost continent the Antarctic Peninsula lies a mere 620 mile from Tierra del Fuego and for many offers a spectacular first taste of the snow-blanketed landscapes and colossal ice sculptures which make up Earth’s least-explored continent. Unseen by humans until 1820 - a blink of an eye ago in relative terms - this is an adventure sure to make your hairs stand on end as you experience the thrill of the truly unknown and extraordinary. The vast peninsula is sprinkled with research bases which are at the frontline of human scientific endeavour pushing to study and understand this unique landscape, its exceptional wildlife and the impact that humans are having on this pristine continent. Witness cathedral-sized icebergs up close and blue-hued glaciers slowly slipping from imposing locations.

The Antarctic Peninsula unravels upwards towards South America reaching out a beckoning finger to the adventurous who dare to explore this untamed realm. Stretching up from the heart of the world’s southernmost continent the Antarctic Peninsula lies a mere 620 mile from Tierra del Fuego and for many offers a spectacular first taste of the snow-blanketed landscapes and colossal ice sculptures which make up Earth’s least-explored continent. Unseen by humans until 1820 - a blink of an eye ago in relative terms - this is an adventure sure to make your hairs stand on end as you experience the thrill of the truly unknown and extraordinary. The vast peninsula is sprinkled with research bases which are at the frontline of human scientific endeavour pushing to study and understand this unique landscape, its exceptional wildlife and the impact that humans are having on this pristine continent. Witness cathedral-sized icebergs up close and blue-hued glaciers slowly slipping from imposing locations.

Charcoal-black mountains ladled with snow giant glaciers and thriving wildlife combine to make South Georgia one of the great natural islands. Adventure to these far flung lands - where the animals are in charge and humans come a distant second. Here you'll witness a cacophony of calling birds, natural set pieces like elephant seals clashing and thrashing and crowds of colourful king penguins stretching out as far as the eye can see. An overseas territory of the UK, these isolated subantarctic islands once formed a remote whaling centre - and you can still visit the former whaling stations. Nowadays the giants of the sea are free to cruise the icy waters uninhibited. Written into explorer history due to its links with Ernest Shackleton’s tale of Antarctic exploration, shipwreck and survival, the Endurance’s crew were saved when he reached the salvation of these shores in 1916 - before returning to collect the remaining sailors from Elephant Island. A museum commemorates the legendary mission and you can see the memorial to Shackleton that stands over his final resting place on this fabled island. South Georgia’s colonies of King Penguins - with vivid bursts of yellow and orange around their necks - stand squabble, and curiously investigate, enjoying the isolated respite of this island. They’re joined by smaller penguin species like Macaroni penguins and other glorious birdlife like the majestic wandering albatrosses which you can see gliding on gusts of wind over the choppy waves.

Charcoal-black mountains ladled with snow giant glaciers and thriving wildlife combine to make South Georgia one of the great natural islands. Adventure to these far flung lands - where the animals are in charge and humans come a distant second. Here you'll witness a cacophony of calling birds, natural set pieces like elephant seals clashing and thrashing and crowds of colourful king penguins stretching out as far as the eye can see. An overseas territory of the UK, these isolated subantarctic islands once formed a remote whaling centre - and you can still visit the former whaling stations. Nowadays the giants of the sea are free to cruise the icy waters uninhibited. Written into explorer history due to its links with Ernest Shackleton’s tale of Antarctic exploration, shipwreck and survival, the Endurance’s crew were saved when he reached the salvation of these shores in 1916 - before returning to collect the remaining sailors from Elephant Island. A museum commemorates the legendary mission and you can see the memorial to Shackleton that stands over his final resting place on this fabled island. South Georgia’s colonies of King Penguins - with vivid bursts of yellow and orange around their necks - stand squabble, and curiously investigate, enjoying the isolated respite of this island. They’re joined by smaller penguin species like Macaroni penguins and other glorious birdlife like the majestic wandering albatrosses which you can see gliding on gusts of wind over the choppy waves.

Charcoal-black mountains ladled with snow giant glaciers and thriving wildlife combine to make South Georgia one of the great natural islands. Adventure to these far flung lands - where the animals are in charge and humans come a distant second. Here you'll witness a cacophony of calling birds, natural set pieces like elephant seals clashing and thrashing and crowds of colourful king penguins stretching out as far as the eye can see. An overseas territory of the UK, these isolated subantarctic islands once formed a remote whaling centre - and you can still visit the former whaling stations. Nowadays the giants of the sea are free to cruise the icy waters uninhibited. Written into explorer history due to its links with Ernest Shackleton’s tale of Antarctic exploration, shipwreck and survival, the Endurance’s crew were saved when he reached the salvation of these shores in 1916 - before returning to collect the remaining sailors from Elephant Island. A museum commemorates the legendary mission and you can see the memorial to Shackleton that stands over his final resting place on this fabled island. South Georgia’s colonies of King Penguins - with vivid bursts of yellow and orange around their necks - stand squabble, and curiously investigate, enjoying the isolated respite of this island. They’re joined by smaller penguin species like Macaroni penguins and other glorious birdlife like the majestic wandering albatrosses which you can see gliding on gusts of wind over the choppy waves.

Names can mislead. Carcass Island’s name is not a reminder of historic whaling days. Instead the island was named after the ship HMS Carcass which visited in the late 18th century. It is living wildlife that makes this island so special. Magellanic and Gentoo Penguins, Upland and Ruddy-headed Geese, and many of Falklands’ land birds thrive here. The island was settled as a sheep farm in 1872. Careful management over the years has protected much of the natural tussac (tussock grass) and other vegetation. Most importantly, introduced rats have been kept at bay. Magellanic Penguins dig burrows for nesting and raising chicks. Adult birds can be seen making the trek between the burrows and the sea. The smart-looking black and white birds often rest and preen on the shore. Gentoo Penguins are larger and sport an orange bill. They nest in tight groups in the open. A predator of young birds is the Striated Caracara, a magnificent dark bird of prey seen swooping around the island. Tussocks of grass on the island can be a hundred years old. They, and introduced gorse, provide protection for smaller birds like the Tussacbird (Blackish Cinclodes), Falklands Thrush, and the striking, red-breasted Long-tailed Meadowlark. The first specimen of the tiny Cobbs Wren, with its short upright tail, was described a century ago from a bird on Caracass Island. It was named after a local amateur ornithologist and farmer. Cobbs Wren will be bird of the day for keen birdwatchers as it is only found at the Falklands.

A north-westerly outpost of the scenic Falkland Islands you'll be welcomed ashore by the calls and cries of black-browed albatross. Indeed the island was originally known as Albatross Island before being renamed to reflect its geographic location. While the albatrosses - that flash white feathers in the rugged cliffs above the waves - are the most well known residents they are far from the only animal inhabitants of this remote isolated land. A huge army of birdlife calls the island sanctuary home overwhelming the tiny human population and sheep that roam West Point Island's grasses. Meet the Rockhopper Penguins who scamper and burrow along the coast's boulders as well as the imperial cormorants who rest here in great numbers. You're also liekly to encounter Magellanic penguins during your explorations. Hike the island's quiet landscapes and look out for endemic plants like Felton's flower the green interior. Decorated with some of the archipelago's most dramatic scenery explore this wind-lashed distant land of soaring cliffs and towering coastal precipices. Cliff Mountain is the island's standout - a towering sandstone monolith and the archipelago's highest cliff falling away to swirling waves below. Look out to the waters to spot Commerson's dolphin chasing each other around the island's wave-washed footprint. Whales also visit as well as the fur seals who you may spot lounging around West Point Island's inviting shores.

Despite it being a stalwart of Britishness, Stanley more resembles Patagonia than Portsmouth. But, despite the windswept, vast and achingly beautiful landscape of the Falkland Islands, don’t be too surprised to find the odd pub serving ales and even fish’n’chips. While landmarks such as Christ Church Cathedral, with its whalebone arch are 100% local, there is a also good smattering of imported garden gnomes and Union Jacks to remind you whose territory you are really on.The Falkland Islands’ ownership has long been a matter of controversy, ever since colonisation in the 18th century. At various points in their life they have been considered French, British, Spanish and Argentine. The Falklands War in 1982, despite only lasting for a short while, proved that the Brits clung to this remote outpost and the islands remain part of the British Commonwealth today. Margaret Thatcher, under whom the war was masterminded, remains something of a local hero as can be seen in the street signs (such as Thatcher Drive). For those who want to dig deeper into the past, the Historic Docklands Museum provides lots of information on the chequered historical and political background of the Falklands.However, the true heroes of Stanley are of course the thousands and thousands of penguins. Five species nest here during mating season (including the rare rockhopper penguin). There are virtually no barriers between you and the wildlife; allowing for a truly interactive, authentic and totally unforgettable experience.

Overlooking the vast Golfo Nuevo the northern Patagonian town of Puerto Madryn is one of Argentina’s top whale-watching spots. Founded by Welsh explorers who arrived aboard the Mimosa ship in 1865 Puerto Madryn welcomes visitors to enjoy its wonderful wildlife traditional tea shops and sheep-rearing ranches known as estancias. An astonishing array of animals call the protected Valdes Peninsula home. See penguins wandering sea lions yawning lazily and playful guanacos galloping here. Head to the beaches of Estancia San Lorenzo to hear the racket made by hundreds of Magellan penguins. The blackened beach of Loberia de Punta Loma bears witness to huge elephant seals rising up and clashing dramatically – or lounging around docilely - and you can even take advantage of the opportunity to swim snorkel and scuba dive with curious and playful sea lions. Further afield Tombo National Reserve is a vast breeding ground for birds and penguins while a huge Magellanic penguin colony 1 500 000 strong spreads out further south at Punta Tombo. Boats roll out from Puerto Madryn on the hunt for Southern Right Whales and orcas among the many marine mammals who move through the waters offshore. Few experiences compare with feeling the salt spray as giant humpbacks crash against the surface. Look out for the black and white Commerson’s dolphins too which are some of the smallest members of the dolphin family.

Passionate, and alive with an infectious crackling energy, the Argentine capital is a breathlessly romantic city, which blends old-world colonial architecture with a down-to-earth Latin American clamour. Famed for steamy tango interplays, and expertly seared steak slabs, a visit to Buenos Aires is a fiery fiesta for the senses. Parque Tres de Febrero is a 400-hectare oasis where 18,000 rose bushes bloom, and skyscrapers give way to still lakes and pretty paths of rollerblading locals. Mighty palm trees - that look like exploding fireworks - stand tall in Plaza de Mayo, the heart of this sprawling cosmopolitan capital of 48 barrios. The square has served as the stage for many fundamental events in this country’s history, and the location where the seeds of independence were sewn continues to serve as the city’s gathering point - and is a place for solidarity, rebellion and revolution. The presidential Casa Rosada’s salmon-hued Palatial Palace borders the plaza, while nearby Museum Nacional de Bellas Artes houses the largest collection of public art in Latin America. Teatro Colón, the opulent 1908 opera house, is one of the world’s finest venues - musical performance here take on an ethereal quality, with the exceptional acoustics transferring every quiver of bow, and tremor of vocal cord, to the audience in spine-tingling clarity. The gargantuan, precipitous terraces of Bombonera Stadium form another of Buenos Aires’s incredible venues, and a wall of noise emanates from it when Boca Juniors take to the field. Juicy steak and punchy Malbec flow in the city’s parrillas – steakhouses - while glitzy bars and thumping nightclubs welcome revellers late into the night. It’s not just the meat that sizzles here either - tango dancers fill milongas - dance halls - to strut passionately until the early hours. Sip steaming mate, the country’s national drink, shop in covered markets, and explore Cementerio de la Recoleta - a city of grand graves and intricate memorials honouring presidents, politicians and notable Argentine heroes from history.

Passionate, and alive with an infectious crackling energy, the Argentine capital is a breathlessly romantic city, which blends old-world colonial architecture with a down-to-earth Latin American clamour. Famed for steamy tango interplays, and expertly seared steak slabs, a visit to Buenos Aires is a fiery fiesta for the senses. Parque Tres de Febrero is a 400-hectare oasis where 18,000 rose bushes bloom, and skyscrapers give way to still lakes and pretty paths of rollerblading locals. Mighty palm trees - that look like exploding fireworks - stand tall in Plaza de Mayo, the heart of this sprawling cosmopolitan capital of 48 barrios. The square has served as the stage for many fundamental events in this country’s history, and the location where the seeds of independence were sewn continues to serve as the city’s gathering point - and is a place for solidarity, rebellion and revolution. The presidential Casa Rosada’s salmon-hued Palatial Palace borders the plaza, while nearby Museum Nacional de Bellas Artes houses the largest collection of public art in Latin America. Teatro Colón, the opulent 1908 opera house, is one of the world’s finest venues - musical performance here take on an ethereal quality, with the exceptional acoustics transferring every quiver of bow, and tremor of vocal cord, to the audience in spine-tingling clarity. The gargantuan, precipitous terraces of Bombonera Stadium form another of Buenos Aires’s incredible venues, and a wall of noise emanates from it when Boca Juniors take to the field. Juicy steak and punchy Malbec flow in the city’s parrillas – steakhouses - while glitzy bars and thumping nightclubs welcome revellers late into the night. It’s not just the meat that sizzles here either - tango dancers fill milongas - dance halls - to strut passionately until the early hours. Sip steaming mate, the country’s national drink, shop in covered markets, and explore Cementerio de la Recoleta - a city of grand graves and intricate memorials honouring presidents, politicians and notable Argentine heroes from history.